The craft of being a perfumer is surrounded by mystery, glamor and idealized thoughts of a master artisan creating alchemy in his laboratory. In last week’s article it became evident that there is a lot of chemistry, science and repetitive work that is demanded of a nose in this highly specialized field. It takes years to memorize ingredients, to understand how they interact, and to consider supply chain, regulatory and production constraints when creating beautiful fragrances. This week’s article includes a visit to the world renown school, ISIPCA (Institut supérieur international du parfum) and in-depth conversation with IFF about the professional path a perfumer can take.

The first research of Essencional for Esxence 2019, in collaboration with Marco Ricchetti and Develon Digital

Fragrance communities abound in the virtual world whether on social media platforms, websites or elsewhere. On the surface we may think they exist to bring like-minded people together to share their love for fragrance, but it’s not always the case. Over the past year I’ve been following about a dozen communities to get a feel for the kind of activity and chatter that occurs regularly. The ones I tracked range in size from over 200,000 to just a few hundred members.

According to a study by research group Brazen, the topic of diversity in the workplace started hitting the radar around 2008, soon followed by the concept of inclusivity. The need to recognize and value people’s differences is vital for businesses, for society and for the common good as we all stand to benefit from a diverse mix of thoughts, cultures, backgrounds, experiences and identities. Thinking about these subjects, and especially in light of the volatile events of 2020, led me to wonder about diversity in the fragrance lab. I reached out to three perfumers, each with a unique story and background.

It was a sultry 22°c in the shade last week as I walked into the Palais des Festivals in Cannes to attend the Tax Free World Exhibition & Conference. The event, which normally occurs annually, resumed this year after a pandemic-induced hiatus in 2020, and brought together over 3400 visitors from around the world from every segment of the travel retail business.

Movers and shakers in the fragrance industry were happy to descend on Florence, Italy for the return of Pitti Fragranze. The event, held at Stazione Leopolda, took place from September 17 – 19, and although attendance was visibly lower than in prior years, it didn’t lack enthusiasm or new brands to discover. I happily ran across several old friends and finally met in person with people I’d zoomed with over the past few months. In some respects, it felt like family coming back together after a long absence. The pandemic may have forced us all to live and work differently, but in no way has it stifled the passion, energy and creativity of the artisan fragrance world.

I never know what to expect when I catch up with Christophe Laudamiel. The multi-talented master perfumer, author, performer, chemist and fragrance visionary is always at the helm of cutting-edge, avant-garde projects that mere mortals can barely imagine. Spanning topics as diverse as ambient scent, scent and art, communication transparency as well as education, the conversation was more than lively.

Many small brands think the Holy Grail of success is to be sold in the US market. Is this still the case or is this antiquated carryover thinking from the Nineties and the Aughts? Having left the US twelve years ago, I knew I needed to get the real story from someone with current experience, so I turned to François Duquesne who, through his Maison Duquesne, is an incubator of independent perfumery with expertise in brand management, creation, development and distribution.

What a treat – and absolute pleasure – it was for me to interview Ralf Schwieger, the nose behind such masterpieces as Hermès Eau de Merveilles and Atelier Cologne’s Orange Sanguine. Moving from childhood memories to a discussion on the creative process plus the ever-changing role of the perfumer, he never ceases to surprise with glimpses into the challenges of his craft and his creative triangle of inspiration.

It’s time to renew our love for fragrance, for innovation and for creativity because Esxence, the art perfumery event, is back! This is the annual rendez-vous in Milan where fragrance professionals and aficionados congregate to celebrate every aspect of artistic perfumery. Founded in 2009 by Maurizio Cavezzali and Silvio Levi, this year marks the 12th edition of Esxence which resumes the live format after a two-year pandemic-induced hiatus.