Italy is a reference point for art, culture, film, cuisine, la Dolce Vita and the love of beautiful things. What is much less known, and will be explored in this article, is the importance of Italy to the world of perfumery. Several months ago I wrote about the German approach to fragrance* which was enlightening, and now it is time to put the focus on the Bel Paese, to shed light on a country that has made significant contributions but that has not been in the limelight. To investigate the role Italy has played over many centuries, I sought out several industry experts who kindly provided insight and shared their knowledge on this fascinating topic.

Italy has a rich yet unknown perfume past. The present is flourishing thanks to prime ingredients, artistic creativity, and a wide merchants base. It is no longer shy.

It takes a lot of courage to have principles and take a stand against what you believe is wrong. I had the distinct privilege of speaking anonymously with the owner of a trading company in China who wanted to expose the dark side of the grey and fake market and, specifically, how it can affect artisan fragrances. To understand the context, let’s start with a definition and then some history.

Spanning the globe once again, your intrepid Essencional reporter has made an exceptional discovery in India where avid fragrance lover and collector, Mr. Shishir Mehta, has founded SCENTIDO Niche Perfumery, the premiere experiential niche fragrance destination in India. Leaving the metallurgical engineering field, where he had been heading a testing laboratory for 35 years, Mr. Mehta pivoted to his passion and his long standing love of rare and exclusive niche fragrances, deciding that the time was right to bring these treasures to the Indian consumer. In this exclusive interview with SCENTIDO Marketing Manager Surabhi Popli we’ll explore the story behind this retailer in a market slated for exponential growth in the years to come.

“Fragrance sits like a jewel in its crystal bottle until it is liberated. And this is why the flacon is so important and must be designed with care.” So said perfumer and founder of his eponymous brand Ramon Monegal when I interviewed him earlier this year. Ever since, the thought of fragrance bottle design has been a topic I have wanted to explore further. What are the origins? How has it evolved in the past hundred years? What is the process and how long does it take? Over the past few months as I met individuals deeply involved in the process, I was able to make inquiries into this part of the fragrance universe that had been elusive.

Not that long ago, in the late 20th century, few people in the world knew that being a perfumer was actually a profession, probably because it was a craft taught by the master to the apprentice. It all changed in 1946 with the creation of the first fragrance school, and ever since, more institutions have cropped up teaching not only perfume creation but everything that supports it, from sourcing to evaluation to quality control. Researching the schools and learning about the breadth of job options became a ”who knew that existed” moment. This two-part series takes a deep dive into internal fragrance schools associated with oil houses where future perfumers are trained, as well as accredited institutes where broader offerings prepare students for multiple career paths.

The craft of being a perfumer is surrounded by mystery, glamor and idealized thoughts of a master artisan creating alchemy in his laboratory. In last week’s article it became evident that there is a lot of chemistry, science and repetitive work that is demanded of a nose in this highly specialized field. It takes years to memorize ingredients, to understand how they interact, and to consider supply chain, regulatory and production constraints when creating beautiful fragrances. This week’s article includes a visit to the world renown school, ISIPCA (Institut supérieur international du parfum) and in-depth conversation with IFF about the professional path a perfumer can take.

The first research of Essencional for Esxence 2019, in collaboration with Marco Ricchetti and Develon Digital

Fragrance communities abound in the virtual world whether on social media platforms, websites or elsewhere. On the surface we may think they exist to bring like-minded people together to share their love for fragrance, but it’s not always the case. Over the past year I’ve been following about a dozen communities to get a feel for the kind of activity and chatter that occurs regularly. The ones I tracked range in size from over 200,000 to just a few hundred members.

According to a study by research group Brazen, the topic of diversity in the workplace started hitting the radar around 2008, soon followed by the concept of inclusivity. The need to recognize and value people’s differences is vital for businesses, for society and for the common good as we all stand to benefit from a diverse mix of thoughts, cultures, backgrounds, experiences and identities. Thinking about these subjects, and especially in light of the volatile events of 2020, led me to wonder about diversity in the fragrance lab. I reached out to three perfumers, each with a unique story and background.