Is natural really better and more sustainable than synthetic? If the consumer wants to do his part to protect biodiversity and the climate, is it better to buy natural products - whose credentials may or may not be questionable - or factory-made synthetics? The answer isn't as clear as you might think. Richard Blackburn, “green” chemist and cosmetics manufacturer observes: “nature is made up of chemical processes. Instead of being afraid of chemistry, people should consider what are the problems of the entire life cycle of substances and raw materials ”.

Consumer preferences in the fragrance market are changing. Significant credentials and heavy marketing expenses are no longer enough: successful fragrances are emphasizing innovation, touching the trend of wellness and aromatherapy and promoting a commitment to sustainable values.

Chemlinked has published its monthly selection of articles on the Chinese market. The report includes some interesting data on the Chinese lockdown, on the results of shopping festivals, on the users of Bilibili (the Chinese youtube) on the niche brands present on the Chinese platform Tmall and on their results and many other news on the cosmetics sector.

Symrise launched the Maison Lautier 1795 natural raw material brand and its first three lines: the Artisan Range, the Madagascar Range and the Supernature Range. Built on the foundations of the historic Lautier Fils brand, the new brand combines Grasse's savoir-faire with innovation in order to be recognized as a brand with a sustainable vision for natural ingredients. Symrise is building a factory in Grasse for Maison Lautier 1795 to strengthen its position in natural raw materials. This will complement its existing factories in Holzminden, Germany and Madagascar. The return to Grasse goes beyond a symbolic gesture. The company intends to source as much raw material as possible locally, providing a boost to local growers, "Made in France" will therefore be an important part of the product's identity.

An engaging Cafleurebon report on Esxence 2022 that lets us discover the news during the days of the fair, the favorite perfumes and brands, off-site events and meetings of this edition.

The Eau qui Enlace fragrance created by Francis Kurkdijan for the TIL brand, is an active perfume whose aromatherapy effects have been objectified and scientifically validated. The TIL brand, founded by Sylvie Polette and her sister di lei Odile, is inspired by their childhood memories immersed in the smell of the lime tree on their family estate in the Dordogne and pays homage to this centuries-old tree. The nose has also worked on every cosmetic galenic form of the line, with different facets for each product. The founders wanted to scientifically evaluate the emotional impact of their perfume, through a measurement protocol developed and performed by neuroscientists Francis Vial and Arnaud Aubert, of the Emospin company specializing in the study of emotions.

Cafleurbon continues its series on young perfumers with an in-depth study on Jerome Di Marino of Takasago, a young perfumer who at 35 was already the author or co-author of 75 fragrances and was awarded by the Academy of Perfume in 2021. An interesting story from his childhood to the challenges he won to work successfully as a nose.

Sensegen, a division of Blue California Ingredients, presented a survey on consumer beliefs about “new naturals” fragrances and natural raw materials, at the World Perfumery Congress (WPC). From the survey results, 66% of consumers said that natural fragrances are completely naturally derived fragrances, about 14% thought they were not added fragrances and 5% said they were unscented fragrances