Tasting the Leaves: Exploring Tea Culture and its influence on Modern Perfumery – Part 1

2025 . 01 . 30 | written by Ermano Picco

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In Western countries, there’s no place like Great Britain that has a close connection with tea, and the afternoon tea rituals. Who can forget Lewis Carroll’s Mad Hatter’s tea party from Alice in Wonderland, or more recently the hilarious scene in The Second-Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (2015), where Maggie Smith's character, Muriel Donnelly, delivers her wry British wit with a side of tea commentary? Her insistence on a proper cup of tea, no matter the foreign surroundings, perfectly captures the beverage's universal yet deeply personal appeal in various cultures.

Tea—a simple, ancient brew—has found in fact its way into every corner of the globe, steeped in tradition, history, and cultural significance. From the elaborate tea ceremonies of Japan to the coziness of the Russian tea ceremony, this humble beverage has been a source of comfort, contemplation, and connection for centuries.
But beyond its role as a soothing drink and a vehicle for comedic moments, tea has a fascinating background and imagery that blown new life in the fragrance market with global hits that have become nowadays classics, and still is a source of inspiration for perfumers. Join me as I delve into the world of tea, exploring its rich history, fascinating traditions, and its modern-day practices. Discover how this beloved beverage continues to inspire and delight, one sip—or sniff—at a time.


The Historical Journey of Tea
The story of tea begins in ancient China, where legend attributes its discovery to Emperor Shen Nong in 2737 BCE. According to folklore, while boiling water under a tree, a leaf from a wild tea plant fell into his pot, creating a fragrant and refreshing brew. This serendipitous event marked the beginning of tea's journey as a cherished beverage.
Tea cultivation and consumption became deeply embedded in Chinese culture during the Tang Dynasty (618-907 CE). It was during this period that the practice of steaming tea leaves was developed, leading to the production of loose-leaf tea. The Tang Dynasty also saw the publication of the first book dedicated to tea,"The Classic of Tea" by Lu Yu, which detailed the art of tea cultivation, preparation, and consumption.

In the early 9 th century tea made its way to Japan, brought by Buddhist monks who had studied in China, where it quickly became appreciated among the Japanese aristocracy and Buddhist clergy. It was not until the Muromachi Period (1333-1573) that the beverage gained popularity among people of all social classes.
Japan developed this way a unique tea culture, exemplified by茶道 , chadō, literally the way of tea or茶の 湯, cha-no-yu, the tea ceremony which emphasizes aesthetics, mindfulness, and the appreciation of the present moment.
Speaking about the West, tea was unknown to Europeans until the 16th century. In 1569, a missionary from Portugal mentioned tea in his letter to the king of Portugal. “There is a bitter and red colored medicinal drink called Cha, and it is drunk by wealthy people who serve it to their guests”. It was not until the first decades of the 1600s though that the Portuguese and the Dutch began to import both black and green tea into Europe, as well as refined porcelain teaware from their trading bases in Macao. The drink quickly became established in the Netherlands and Portugal; it was first introduced to France in 1635, to Germany in 1650, and when Catherine of Braganza of Portugal was betrothed to Charles II, tea made it to the Royal House of England for the first time.

Catherine of Braganza by Dirk Stoop

In 1657 the first consignments of tea reached London. If initially it was a luxury item primarily enjoyed by the wealthy, by the 18 th century tea had become a staple in British society, with the addition of sugar, milk or lemon, and the establishment of tea houses and the tradition of afternoon tea. The British East India Company played a crucial role in popularizing tea and establishing plantations in India, which would become a major tea producing region.
In Russia, tea is often enjoyed from a samovar, a special tea urn used to keep it hot, and traditionally sweetened by adding raspberry jam or honey rather than sugar. The Russian word for tea chai (the same also in Turkish language), from the Mandarin word cha茶 talks much about the path this brew went through to reach Russia. Tea was first introduced from North China to Siberia by way of Mongolia. Most of the other European languages use the word "tea" which comes from the word for tea te 茶 used in Min Chinese spoken in the Fujian province, that’s from where the Dutch East India Company shipped tea. So in a nutshell, the word chai was adopted in countries where the brew came by land from China, whereas tea was favored where it came by sea.
From Europe, lastly tea spread to all the European colonies all around the world, from the Americas to Australia where each culture embraced tea creating unique customs and places where to elegantly sip the legendary beverage.

Tea houses around the world
Speaking about great places where to sip the best tea, it’s worth taking a virtual tour through various continents to discover the oldest tea houses The Tsûen Teashop in Uji city, Kyoto Prefecture, Japan dates back to 1160 A.D. The building which stands today though was built in 1672 as a striking example of machiya architecture, with deep eaves and a wide entrance with tea jars spanning several hundred years lined up outside the shop. When Martial Arts Master Furukawa Unai retired, he built a teahouse on the eastern end of the Uji Bridge. Since then, the Tsûen Tea shop is a space to enjoy tea in a space that’s been around for 850 years for a total aesthetic and intellectual fulfillment.
Both locals and tourists in Tehran, Iran know where to get the best tea experience, at Azari Traditional Tea House that was built in the 14th century. One of the most famous chaikhanehs (tea houses) and certainly the oldest, since its establishment the Azari Tea House was much more than a place of gathering over a cuppa tea – it was also a place where a new art form was created, the art of teahouse painting which typically illustrates religious and mythical themes, several of which are still on display.
With delicate bone china, the finest leaf teas, and friendly staff in Victorian costumes serving homemade cakes, pastries and sandwiches, the Bridge Tea Room in Bradford Upon Avon, United Kingdom boasts a long history dating back to 1675.

Bridge Tea Room in Bradford Upon Avon, United Kingdom

Al Fishawy in Cairo, Egypt has never closed its doors since opening in 1773, 24/7 12-months a year. This historic café located near the 14th-century Khan el Khalili bazaar offers a cozy escape. Visitors relax for hours here under old archways and tin lamps, sipping cups of mint tea and smoking shisha. The space packed with wobbly tables is filled with laughter in a lively atmosphere.

Fishawy in Cairo, Egypt

In 1854 the Mariage Frères tea company was established along with the Mariage Tea Salon in Paris, France, after almost two centuries from the first trips of Nicolas and Pierre Mariage to Persia and India in search of exotic goods on behalf of the royal court of King Louis XIV, where they found tea. With the longest list of teas on the planet (over 600), and the amazing museum from the 19th century on the first floor, this little corner of the Marais is a must-visit for tea lovers. While celebrities like Isabelle Adjani, Claudia Schiffer, and Jared Leto like to make an appearance from time to time, on a perfume-related side note, Mariage Frères is the place where perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena got the inspiration for the legendary tea accord that revolutionized the 1990s with the planetary success of Bulgari Eau Parfumée au Thé Vert.

Mariage Tea Salon, Paris

Tea ceremony in arts and cultures
Tea transcends its simplicity through its deep roots in the cultural traditions of nations worldwide. From ancient China to modern-day Britain, tea rituals profoundly influenced literature and the arts.

In China, the Gongfu Cha (making tea with skill) ceremony reflects precision, mindfulness, and harmony with nature. Originating during the Song Dynasty (960–1279 CE), it emphasizes craftsmanship, with tea masters using Yixing clay teapots or porcelain gaiwans to brew teas like Tieguanyin and Longjing. This meditative ritual connects participants to nature and fosters inner peace. Tea has inspired Chinese literature and arts, symbolizing simplicity and enlightenment. Lu Tong, known as the Tea Saint, celebrated tea’s spiritual nourishment in his poem Seven Bowls of Tea. During the Ming Dynasty (1368–1644 CE), tea drinking became a popular theme in ink paintings. Artists like Wen Zhengming depicted scholars sipping tea amidst serene landscapes, embodying intellectual refinement. Even in modern cinema, tea retains its symbolic power, as seen in Zhang Yimou’s Raise the Red Lantern (1991), where it represents power dynamics and tradition.

By the 15th century, Japan had developed a distinct tea culture shaped by Zen Buddhism. Murata Jukō, the father of the Japanese tea ceremony, infused tea practice with Zen principles, emphasizing simplicity and spirituality. This philosophy was perfected in the 16th century by Sen no Rikyū, whose innovations codified the tea ceremony around wabi-sabi—the beauty of imperfection and impermanence. The Japanese tea ceremony centers on preparing and presenting matcha, powdered green tea. Every gesture is deliberate, inviting participants to embrace the present moment while appreciating textures, sounds, and shadows.
This mindfulness deeply influenced Japanese literature and arts. Matsuo Bashō, a haiku master, used tea as a metaphor for transience, as in his famous verse: “A world of dew, and within every dewdrop, a world of
struggle.” The philosophy of tea was introduced to the West by Okakura Kakuzō’s The Book of Tea (1906), linking tea to life and art.


Tea was introduced to India in the 19th century when the British East India Company established plantations in Assam and Darjeeling. Initially a colonial enterprise, tea became a cornerstone of Indian culture, evolving into chai, a spiced, milky brew made with black tea, sugar, and spices like cardamom and ginger. Chai wallahs, or street vendors, serve this comforting beverage on street corners, fostering community and conversation. Tea also permeates Indian literature and cinema. Rabindranath Tagore’s Red Oleanders uses tea to symbolize connection amid turmoil, while films like Chokher Bali (2003) highlight its role in societal change. Chai remains a symbol of Indian identity and unity, embodying warmth and hospitality.

Tea reached Britain in the 17th century, evolving from an exotic luxury into a cultural cornerstone. By the 19th century, afternoon tea, popularized by Anna, the Duchess of Bedford, became a refined tradition of sandwiches, scones, and fine china, epitomizing hospitality and elegance. Tea is a recurring motif in British literature. In Jane Austen’s Emma, tea facilitates intimate exchanges, while in Charles Dickens’ Great Expectations, Pip’s humble tea contrasts with Miss Havisham’s decayed opulence. Lewis Carroll’s Alice’s Adventures in Wonderland immortalized tea in the whimsical Mad Hatter’s tea party, critiquing Victorian propriety. In visual arts, tea inspired Wedgwood pottery, aligning design with tea rituals, and in theater, Oscar Wilde’s The Importance of Being Earnest features a passive aggressive tea duel symbolizing societal tensions.

Mad hatter tea party

Russian tea culture centers on the samovar, a traditional urn symbolizing warmth and connection. Tea is brewed as a strong concentrate, zavarka, and diluted with hot water to individual taste, fostering communal rituals. It is often sweetened with varenya (fruit preserves) or honey and enjoyed with blini, pastries, or pies, creating a sensory experience of comfort. Tea features prominently in Russian literature.
In Tolstoy’s Anna Karenina, tea scenes reflect societal norms and personal bonds, such as Kitty preparing tea for Levin to symbolize their budding relationship. In Chekhov’s The Three Sisters tea becomes a metaphor for solace and longing during reflective conversations. Russian visual art also celebrates tea, as seen in Boris Kustodiev’s Merchant’s Wife Drinking Tea (1918), which captures the duality of luxury and domestic ritual.

Tea types and their origin

Camellia sinensis, the source of all true tea, is an evergreen shrub belonging to the Theaceae family. This remarkable plant has two primary varieties; Camellia sinensis var. sinensis, native to China, is characterized by its smaller leaves and tolerance for cooler climates, whereas Camellia sinensis var. assamica, originating in Assam, India, features larger leaves and thrives in warmer, more tropical conditions. A third variety,
initially considered a subspecies of assamica, is Camellia sinensis var. lasiocalyx, typical of Cambodia. This variety is now recognized as a hybrid of sinensis and assamica.

Camellia sinensis flourishes in specific environmental conditions. Temperatures between 10–30°C are essential for its growth, alongside annual rainfall ranging from 1500–3000mm, which provides the humid climate needed. These conditions are typical in regions such as southeastern China, India, Sri Lanka, and Japan. Additionally, the plant thrives in well-drained, acidic soil commonly found in highland areas.

Once planted, the tea shrub takes approximately four years to mature before its leaves can be harvested. Regular pruning is vital to maintaining the plant’s health and encouraging the growth of new, tender leaves,
which are essential for high-quality tea production.

Camellia sinensis, John Miller, 1771

All tea types—green, black, white, oolong, and pu-erh—are derived from Camellia sinensis. The variations arise from the terroir (the unique environmental characteristics of where the tea is grown) and the processing methods used. The journey of tea begins with careful handpicking of young leaves, typically from March onward. Only the bud and the first few leaves are selected, as these are the most tender and flavorful.
After harvesting, the leaves undergo withering to remove excess water, allowing the oxidation process to commence. Oxidation—the reaction between the leaves’ enzymes and oxygen—plays a pivotal role in determining the type and flavor profile of the tea. The duration of oxidation varies, creating a spectrum of tea types:


● Green Tea: Minimally oxidized, green tea is renowned for its fresh, grassy, and vegetal aroma. Subtle floral and fruity undertones often accompany this, along with occasional hints of seaweed or ocean breeze, reflecting its delicate processing.

● White Tea: The least processed of all, white tea has a delicate and subtle aroma, with sweet, floral, and fruity notes. Its fresh, hay-like scent is reminiscent of a spring meadow, embodying purity and simplicity.


● Oolong Tea: Partially oxidized, oolong tea offers a complex and layered aroma. It can feature floral, fruity, and creamy notes, with hints of nuts, honey, and a balance of fresh and toasty characteristics. This makes oolong one of the most versatile and intriguing tea types.


● Black Tea: Fully oxidized, black tea boasts a rich and robust aroma with malty, fruity, and sometimes smoky notes. Additional hints of honey, caramel, and spices create a warm and inviting scent profile.


● Pu-erh Tea: A fermented tea, pu-erh is renowned for its unique and earthy aroma. Notes of moss, wood, and a damp forest floor dominate, complemented by hints of dried fruit, leather, and tobacco, offering a deep and complex sensory experience.

Tea processing doesn’t stop at oxidation; additional techniques can further enhance or alter the flavor profile and aroma of the tea. Among these are roasting, smoking, and flavoring.


● Roasted Teas: Roasting imbues tea with a warm, toasty character, enhancing its nuttiness and bringing out caramelized notes. This method is commonly used for oolong and green teas, creating a comforting, rich, and distinctive flavor profile that appeals to those seeking a less astringent, more soothing cup. The roasting process also reduces the content of caffeine, making it more suitable for children. A well-known example is Hōjicha, a roasted Japanese green tea celebrated for its mellow flavor.


● Smoked Teas: Smoking involves exposing the tea leaves to smoke from burning wood, imparting a bold, smoky aroma and flavor. Lapsang Souchong, a black tea from China, is a classic example of smoked tea.


● Flavored Teas: Flavored teas are infused with additional ingredients such as fruits, flowers, herbs, or spices. Jasmine tea, where green tea leaves are scented with fresh jasmine blossoms, is a popular example, as are fruit-infused blends and chai, a spiced black tea.

Bowls with natural herbs

Tea, in its many forms, is a testament to the craftsmanship of cultivation and processing. From the terroir to its production, each cup tells a story of origin, culture, and meticulous care. Whether you prefer the grassy freshness of green tea, the floral elegance of white tea, the complexity of oolong, the richness of black tea, or the earthy depth of pu-erh, every sip is a journey into the world of Camellia sinensis. So let’s take a trip now to where tea is produced outside Asia.


TEA PRODUCTION (from China to all over the world)
Most European countries first set up big plantations in their colonies rather than growing tea at home. Not much of a surprise, since the climate in India is much more suited to tea than Wales! The Dutch grew tea from seed on Java and Sumatra in Indonesia and the British set up plantations in India, Kenya and Uganda. It was these plantations that cemented black tea as a favorite drink on European shores.

So, we know that Europe played an important role in developing the tea industry, but did they grow much tea? Well, it turns out, yes, tea cultivation began at the end of the 19th century in Georgia, Russia, Azerbaijan, Turkey and the Azores Islands in Portugal. Azores came first in 1874, with a little help from a Chinese tea expert from Macau. By the beginning of the 20th century, there were 14 tea gardens in the North of São Miguel Island. Today, only two remain – totaling around 40 hectares. Production in Georgia started a few years later in 1893, on the eastern shore of the Black Sea. At first, 150 hectares of tea seeds from China, Ceylon and India were planted. In 1900, an initiative was set up to give landowners tea seedlings free of charge which increased the number of tea plantations very quickly. By 1913, Georgia had 960 hectares of tea plantations. From 1923, tea production in Georgia boomed under the Soviet Union.
Only a decade later, there were some 34,000 hectares of tea bushes! The photo below shows a Georgian tea factory packing station in Chakvi in the early 20th century. Georgia became the world’s fourth largest producer of tea and the biggest European tea region. The neighboring regions of Sochi in Russia and Rize in Turkey developed their tea plantations with the help of Georgian expertise. You can read more about the rise and fall of th Georgian tea industry here.

Georgian tea factory packing station in Chakvi in the early 20th centuryres

In recent years, European tea plantations have sprung up in surprising locations. You can now find tea bushes growing from Holland to Switzerland and the Scottish Highlands. Many of the European tea plantations have been grown from Georgian seed. Growing tea in Europe comes with its problems. Although the climate in some countries such as Georgia is ideal for growing tea, the same cannot be said for Holland or Wales. Nonetheless, growing tea in Europe is possible and the industry will probably continue to grow. Currently, European tea plantations are generally small.
Tea and perfumery share a bond that intertwines tradition, craftsmanship, and sensory delight. In this exploration through the history, cultural significance, and global spread of tea, we uncovered its influence on rituals and daily life. Yet, there’s much more to discover about how tea inspires the art of scent. Stay tuned for part 2 featuring an enlightening interview with a renowned tea expert. We’ll delve deeper into the connection between tea and perfumery, exploring how specific tea varieties influenced olfactory masterpieces. From delicate green teas to the smoky allure of lapsang souchong, we’ll uncover the artistry behind these fascinating worlds.