Returning to its historic home at Paris's Espace Champerret after last year's debut in Grasse, the 18th edition of SIMPPAR proved to be a resounding success. With just over 4,000 entries across two energetic days—including nearly 350 perfumers from around the world—this year’s show confirmed SIMPPAR’s growing international significance.

The vibrant atmosphere, especially on opening day, kept exhibitors constantly engaged with visitors, while the café area buzzed with long queues—even for a quick coffee—making finding a spot for an impromptu meeting a feat of luck.

With 128 exhibitors from 24 countries, the event was a showcase of creativity and innovation. Each stand offered immersive experiences, spotlighting cutting-edge raw materials, processes, and technologies.

With this vibrant backdrop, strolling through the salon floor of SIMPPAR 2025 was, as always, a rich olfactory journey. From big players to rising newcomers, each booth offered a unique experience—with unusual botanicals, innovative extraction processes, and beyond-future molecules. Here's a guided tour of the standout perfumery ingredients revealed during this exceptional edition.

Biolandes
The independent family-run company continues to surprise and delight with its portfolio of unconventional natural raw materials. Just when upcycled popcorn absolute had left us astonished, the brand marked its 45th anniversary by going a step further. Their new Champignon de Paris absolute (Agaricus bisporus) impressed with its fully edible profile (it is also food grade). The scent conjures creamy sautéed mushrooms, with a buttery body, subtle green undertones, and a soft, waxy floralcy of rose and violet, underpinned by an earthy, moss-like elegance. It's easy to imagine this material overdosed in a spicy, gourmand sandalwood composition, kissed with gardenia petals and a trace of leather.

Their By-absolute collection, of which the previous induction was vetiver, now welcomes a striking upcycled sandalwood absolute from New Caledonia. It's luxuriously smooth and creamy, with a soft cashew-like nuance. The By-absolute process begins with the exhausted residue from traditional sandalwood oil extraction, which is then treated with volatile solvents to obtain a by-concrete, and ultimately transformed into the by-absolute.

Rounding out the line of showcased ingredients, Biolandes also presented Sweet Clover Absolute (Melilotus officinalis), a must for lovers of hay and blonde tobacco notes. It opens with a delicious honey-almond profile, supported by a warm, sunlit orange blossom floralcy.

The day before SIMPPAR, I had the pleasure of visiting the new studio and lab of independent perfumer Patrice Revillard. Our conversation meandered from raw materials to both contemporary and vintage perfumes. Patrice graciously shared a variety of his creations and works in progress—some of which left me truly stunned. He also introduced me to one of the oldest treasures in the Biolandes catalogue: Pine Needles Absolute. Used by Patrice in an ambery accord, this rare ingredient is nothing short of captivating. At the Biolandes booth, I asked to smell it and was pleasantly surprised: think labdanum-like sweetness, but rather than the usual licorice tone, you get cedarwood freshness and a pine nut-like creaminess—a truly modern twist on resinous ambers.

Bontoux
The Provençal family-run house, founded in 1898, remains a staple of excellence. For SIMPPAR 2025, they partnered with mixologist Marlene Steiger to greet visitors with a toast featuring their signature blend, L’ouro Doura, crafted with their top-tier natural ingredients. Sales Manager Marine Magner, a familiar and friendly face, welcomed me and guided a fascinating olfactory tour.

We began with their Bitter Almond Essential Oil, which opens with a bold balsamic bitterness balanced by a sugary, almost candied undertone. This hydrogen cyanide-free extraction brings safety and versatility, ideal for adding naturalness to cherry, white peach, lilac, and heliotrope top notes.

Unexpectedly, another confectionery impression came from Clary Sage Absolute Purecoeur©. This material leans toward ambery warmth rather than the usual aromatic profile and is enhanced with heliotrope and sugary nuances that feel both modern and comforting.

To conclude, I explored the Olibanum Resinoid MD, a molecular distillation of Boswellia carterii that captures the dense resinous heart of frankincense. It forgoes the bright citrusy opening often found in traditional olibanum oils and instead dives straight into a warm, mystical depth—a sensory immersion akin to stepping into an ancient cathedral.

Campisi Citrus

One of my most delightful discoveries at SIMPPAR 2025 was the Sicilian agricultural company Campisi, now in its fourth generation and specializing in organic citrus fruits. Co-CEO Barbara Campisi proudly introduced me to a standout: the cold-pressed Siracusa Lemon PGI oil. This oil dazzled with a radiant, sparkling freshness touched by a pronounced rosy floralcy and slight metallic glints. It evoked the comforting scent of yellow winter lemon zest on your fingertips—lively but not acidic.

To help me sense the nuance, Barbara offered a comparison with green Summer Lemon, which turned out to be more metallic and aromatic, though lacking the floral grace of the Siracusa variety. Their blonde and blood orange oils were equally stunning, especially the blood orange: full-bodied, cheerful, and juicy, with an almost candied-fruit cologne quality. Altogether, Campisi’s range brought a refreshing and delightful span on citrus.

Cilione

Finding unusual gems among citrus is not easy for their range is a classic among topnotes. So I was pleased to smell Cilione’s Red Grapefruit Essential Oil, which revealed a rounder and less bitter profile than yellow or pink grapefruit. The opening bursts with aromatic and tropical fruit notes—reminiscent of timur pepper—before settling into a sweet finish, echoing the lushness of blood orange. How inspiring.

Capua 1880

Always a hub of activity, the Capua 1880 booth caught the eye with an evocative display of off-season bergamot branches, glowing bright yellow. While in-season bergamots are typically green and resemble unripe bitter oranges (their botanical ancestors), the ripened off-season fruits take on a lemon-like hue—a beautiful visual nod to their complex lineage.

Among the materials on display, one of the most talked-about was the new Hazelnut Nat Infuse TEC from Italy. Rich in filbertone, this natural infusion offers a warm, nutty, and creamy character lacking the unpleasant metallic edge exuding from the synthetic molecule. Instead, it unfolds with a soft roasted praline sweetness, making it ideal for rounding out coffee and smoky accords or lending an indulgent, biscuit-like warmth to sandalwood-based compositions.

DSM – Firmenich

Busiest as usual, the DSM-Firmenich booth at the end of the first day offered a toast to the audience. Among the present in-house perfumers Alberto Morillas shined in full glory dressed in a black suit, white shirt with jewel cufflinks, and leaving an opulent oud trail. What also shined in full glory are the precious raw materials of the latest Sharing Innovation 2025 collection. Clearwood Prisma is a radiant and smooth patchouli note made from biotechnology, one of the most eco-friendly approaches available nowadays to satisfy the growing demand from conscious consumers seeking sustainable perfumes. Compared to regular clearwood, it bears a shining terpenic freshness on top that makes it an abstract citrus chypre pillar on its own. Along with it, also Firsantol adds to the palette a powerful upcycled sandalwood note. Among the proposed ingredients, Cyclamen Base shines as a replacer of cyclamen aldehyde. This radiant specialty, including a few captives, bears a delicate multifaceted cyclamen profile, with a muguet watery, yet less bleach-like sensation compared to cyclamen aldehyde. Instead, it exudes a blooming lactonic hue. Speaking about naturals, Olibanum SFE (Boswellia carterii) from Somalia: terpenic, almost peppery top note with piney balsamic hues immediately reminiscent of the peaceful Orthodox church incense smell. The olibanum SFE is produced from biomass with FairWild Certification assuring that wild harvested products are made in a socially and ecologically sound manner supporting sustainable livelihoods and promoting ethical trade practices. Caribbean Rum SFE was another gem in the collection, exuding alcoholic fresh top notes with a mouthwatering ripe bananas and sultanas fruitiness that never gets too sticky, balanced by a smooth woody, vanillic barrique drydown. The best of the Sharing Innovation naturals though is the Coffee Peru Organic Firgood (coffee arabica). For the first time I smelled a coffee extraction that perfectly captures the spirit of Italian espresso done right. Roasted black coffee top notes, never overburnt nor green, unfold a tapestry of hazelnut cappuccino creaminess with sophisticated 70% dark chocolate hues that add exotic sophistication and addictiveness.

Floral Concept

Arriving at the Floral Concept booth, I took the opportunity to thank Frédérique Rémy once again for her interview with Essencional. There, I also had the pleasure of speaking with perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato and Osmothèque President Thomas Fontaine. Together, they shared their enthusiasm for the booth's centerpiece: Linalool ex-Bois de Rose.

After disappearing from the perfumer's palette for decades due to environmental protection, the coveted fresh-floral top note of Bois de Rose has made a triumphant return thanks to Floral Concept. The natural isolate linalool captures the purest expression of bois de rose, offering an exquisite chilling floral silkiness reminiscent of the finest French lavender and the airy brightness of hand-sponged Calabrian bergamot. It’s a true gem for the modern perfumer.

International Flavors & Fragrances

What made the IFF booth quite literally glow this year was the neon sign "Make Joy" — a fitting prelude to the joyful and imaginative synthetics they showcased. Alongside perfumer Anatole Lebreton, I experienced Tropicalia™, a fascinating molecule that begins with a radiant fruitiness akin to pineapple and melon at low concentrations. As the dosage increases, it morphs into something creamy, lactonic, and banana-like, even brushing up against the daring animalic notes reminiscent of historic materials like costus root.

Oceanol, a new ozonic molecule, joins the wave of biodegradable innovations. It delivers a savory, oceanic freshness with a transparent yet mossy drydown (it works nicely combined with veramoss), cleaner and more modern than older marine notes.

LMR Naturals also introduced ingredients rooted in traditional Chinese medicine, celebrating their new Innovation Platform in China. The standout: Osmanthus Absolute LMR, a harmonious blend of apricot jam and freshly tanned suede. Also noteworthy was Sichuan Pepper Absolute CO2, sparkling with effervescent, zesty brightness, capturing petitgrain and verbena tones with a striking piquant edge.

Lecheq Farm & Distillery

The booth of this Farm & Distillery from Azerbaijan was like stepping into a blooming rose field, crowded with curious visitors. It reminded me of the historic role Azerbaijan played in supplying rose oil during both the Russian Empire and the Soviet Union eras.

Azerbaijani Rose Damascena Essential Oil distinguishes itself from its Bulgarian counterpart: where the latter is litchi-fresh and crisp, the former is jammy, honeyed, and spiced with clove-like facets—dramatic like the Caucasian landscape itself. Alongside the classic rose oil, Rose Totale offered a full-spectrum experience with warm, enveloping, honeyed depth. The booth also featured a suite of aromatic herb oils, including a showstopper: Organic Wormwood Essential Oil (Artemisia absinthium). It opens with a balsamic warmth, evolving into a bitter liqueur-like complexity evocative of absinthe and Chartreuse, finishing with a mellow, coumarin sweetness. Chic and dangerously addictive.

Mane 1971

White and golden-yellow striped beach huts, blue and white donut-shaped lifebuoys, and the words “SUN CLUB · INGREDIENTS ·” painted on a baby blue wall—Mane’s booth instantly transported visitors into a sun-drenched, summery mood, perfectly aligned with their exotic-themed ingredients collection. I had the pleasure of being welcomed to their Luxury Fragrant Resort by no less than the perfumer behind the development of new ingredients from the company, Serge Majoullier.

Among their highlights was the Red Champaca E-Pure Jungle Essence, a solar floral note I was already familiar with, showcasing a complex white floral character wrapped in honeyed and powdery softness. Another standout was Sublimolide, a vegan alternative to ambrettolide that delivers the same addictive, fruity-musky signature with a sustainable twist.

But perhaps the most exciting innovation was Darkoa, a natural co-extraction of cocoa powder and sustainable Gayo patchouli oil. It retains the silky earthiness of patchouli while layering in a seductive dark chocolate and liqueur nuance, tinged with a subtly animalic leather edge.

Speaking of inventive patchouli profiles, I also encountered an outstanding material at Payan Bertrand: Cuir de Sumatra, an exclusive blend of patchouli and osmanthus. The result is a bold, fruity chypre leather that feels both primal and impossibly chic. Patchouli has never really fallen out of style, but these daring reinterpretations hint at a revival. Expect to see a new generation of patchouli-centered fragrances sometime soon.

Robertet

Always a magnet for attention, Robertet presented its Futuring Naturals collection to a crowd of eager noses. This year, Artemisia (Artemisia annua) Colorless Absolute CleanRscent, sourced from Madagascar, took center stage. Compared to the classic essential oil, this extract highlights hay-like sweetness, tobacco warmth, and exotic nuances reminiscent of immortelle and marigold.

Also featured was Combawa Essential Oil — often confused visually with bergamot due to its green rind. Its scent is as textured as its wrinkled peel: sharp terpenes, sparkling aldehydes, and bitter greenery form a thoroughly modern citrus expression.

However, the true revelation was the Black Tea Smoked Colorless CleanRscent Extract. Though still a captive, it unfolds as a full-fledged perfume: vegetal tannins, IBQ-like green notes, tobacco, and labdanum-licorice all merge into a bold Russian leather chypre experience.

And speaking of smoky, I also encountered Cuir de Russie Base from Synarome: an elegant, fatty smoked leather enriched by aldehydic floral touches from Animalis base. This hints at an emerging trend—expect a renaissance of smoky accords in fine fragrance.

Symrise

The award for the most show-stopping synthetic ingredient surely goes to Ambrostar. Originally synthesized in 2010 by Philip Kraft, this radiant dry amber is now available to all. With savory ambergris facets, Ambrostar delivers an astonishing explosive radiance even at trace levels of 0.01%. The impressive thing is that even at high concentrations, it still exudes such brilliance, and smoothness with a warm subtle animalic touch that makes it a refined gem.

On the naturals front, Maison Lautier 1795, Symrise's naturals arm, drew me in with several rich offerings. Their Bay Leaf Oil (Pimenta racemosa) impressed with its warm, balsamic spiciness—touches of saffron and clove floralcy making it surprisingly versatile. Equally remarkable was Cinnamon Bark Oil (Low Safrol): powdery, warm, and redolent of golden butter biscuits and freshly grated tonka bean.

Lastly, Myrrh Absolute deserves a special mention. It softens the sharp aldehydic top notes often associated with myrrh, focusing instead on deliciously boozy dried fruit, resin, and gentle licorice, bringing a new dimension to amber-style compositions.

Zalabì

When excellence is the goal, Zalabí proves that refusing to compromise is often the fastest path to achieving it. Nestled at the foot of the Sierra Nevada in the Zalabì Valley, this family-run farm and distillery began cultivating and extracting premium essential oils almost five years ago. Their focus lies on regional aromatic plants such as lavender, spike lavender, lavandin, and other native herbs.

Sustainability is deeply embedded in their operations. With a zero-waste philosophy, efficient water management, low-emissions production, and a fully solar-powered distillery, Zalabì has created a circular process that transforms plant residue into essential oils, hydrosols, and bioenergy.

I was particularly taken by their Red Thyme Essential Oil, which offers a bold aromatic profile laced with bitter leather nuances—never too urinous—and balanced by a touch of savory amber. Equally impressive was their Sage Oil (Salvia lavandulifolia), which revealed a round, warm scent evocative of labdanum, setting it apart from the cooler, incense-like tones of traditional clary sage. It's a reminder of the unique magic that terroir and commitment can bring to an ingredient.

A Festive Finale and a Glimpse Ahead

Beyond the booths and blotters, SIMPPAR 2025 was also a celebration of talent, creativity, and fragrant community. The social highlight of the salon was the joint presentation of the SFP (Société Française des Parfumeurs) International Young Perfumer Award and the newly established SIPC (Société Internationale des Parfumeurs-Créateurs) Awards.

This year’s SFP award theme, “Olfactory and Poetic Cultural Landscapes of Provence Lavenders,” inspired a wide range of interpretations. The top prize went to Clémentine Beun, junior perfumer at Essential, for her luminous creation Lavande Argentée.

The SIPC Awards made their debut with a dazzling parade of perfumers—including Francis Kurkdjian, Hélène Prévost, Calice Becker, Alexandra Carlin, Sophie Labbé, Sylvie Jourdet, Karin Vinchon, and newly elected president Thierry Wasser. The awards ceremony gathered nearly 1,000 guests and concluded with a joyful cocktail reception. Among the most touching moments were the heartfelt acceptance speeches by Patricia de Nicolai and Alberto Morillas, both recipients of the SIPC Contribution Award.

As the scent of SIMPPAR 2025 lingers, so does its spirit: collaborative, curious, and forward-looking. The countdown now begins for the next edition, which returns to Grasse on May 26 and 27, 2026.