Palpable Expectations for Unquestionable Innovations.

In this article, our exploration in terms of fragrance innovations will not delve into AI, wellness, or the new gen aspirations. Those topics are widely covered and have already been tackled by Essencional, so we venture out of the ‘usual suspects,’ with non-evident innovation aspects covered by industry experts. We focus on three important areas of innovation in the world of fragrance with significant advance: packaging, formulating, and smelling.

The story of humanity is punctuated with progress in technology; a burning necessity when looking ahead to the next innovation becomes a never-ending captivating mission. The fragrance industry follows the same adventure journey with a variety of paths; the quest encompasses perfumes with new application gestures, scents that are cleaner, but also more intense, with formulas rich in hydration and skin friendly formulation, with packaging embracing our environmental responsibility and ‘on the move’ society.

The past was simple when perfume had only one definition; a perfume meant spray, alcohol, in a bottle with a quite simple choice of ingredients and its smelling experience was straightforward; spray on the skin and evaluate the olfactive test with a panel of experts, at different times of the perfume evolution.

Across the Lines. Cosmetics and Perfumes All in One.

Now, fragrance is a complex question that must be answered precisely; ‘what kind of fragrance?’ has so many possible answers and the future will hold more. Innovation hits a vast array of touch points so that a perfume can be encapsulated into gel, oil, solid, balm, water, with a hybrid, skin-enhancing formula and a large rainbow of possibilities in terms of scented components… There are so many options in terms of substance, textures, formats and applicators: vegetable alcohol, no alcohol, emulsion, water, stick, roller format, bottle, tube, paper… Perfume has gone across the lines, and jumped into the cosmetics field and vice versa. Innovation has blurred the distinction between cosmetics and fragrances. In this article, we ask an industry expert, COSMOGEN, present at the Fragrance Innovation Summit, to give us precious insights on the ‘revolution’ of packaging. On the new formulations front, we ask questions to a global key actor, CPL Aromas.

And since the smelling evaluation sessions of the past have also evolved, we speak with an expert in the field. The usual stages, upon application, and after several hours analysed subjectively by humans, can now be replaced by a scientific, unbiased and reliable solution. Skin VOCs can be analysed scientifically without a human interpretation thanks to a new breakthrough technology presented by SenseBioTek at the Fragrance Innovation Summit.

Without further ado, let us delve into our three innovation matters.

'All In One' Formulation Comes with Packaging Innovations

There is a new generation of ‘cosmetic scents’ or ‘scented cosmetics’ with a deep embrace between skin care and fragrance. Like a piece of evidence that the common destination of cosmetics and fragrance is our skin indulgence. A fragrance melts into the skin as much as a cream or make up does. Innovative solutions are popping out in ‘South Asia,’ a geographical region covering Indonesia, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Malaysia, and other island states but not India. New releases encompass hair dryers with a perfume capsule holder so one can scent one’s hair while air drying it, perfumed hairbrushes, and scented makeup sponges. Back in the Western world, in Paris, one of the capitals of beauty, one realises that the blurred line between scent and cosmetics comes with an important level of innovation in packaging solutions.

Pushing this frontier is COSMOGEN, the company talked about in the press (e.g. Premium Beauty News) who presented its most recent releases at the Fragrance Innovation Summit.

The New Gen of Packaging by COSMOGEN.

COSMOGEN, a French company founded in 1982, has steadily and successfully ‘won over’ many beauty brands, large multinationals or indies (L’Oréal, Clarins, L’Occitane, O’ Boticario, Horace, The Smilist) thanks to a winning strategy focused on sustainable innovation, internationalization and an agile fabless* production. The focus on innovation is such that the in-house R&D team produces around thirty new registered patented models and one or two patents a year. With its main headquarter in Paris servicing the whole of the EMEA region, the company has opened commercial hubs in the US and in South America to be close to its clients. This vicinity allows the company to offer bespoke solutions, customized for a specific brand in addition to the ‘ready to go’ product range. The portfolio keeps expanding with the market entry into pharmaceutical ‘OTC’ (over the counter) and hair scalp care category. On the sustainability front, the company has pushed to such an extent that in 2022 it gained the French legal status of a ‘Société à Mission’**: ‘to innovate responsibly for safe and sustainable beauty with respect for the people and the environment’ is COSMOGEN’s mission. In line with this mission, every innovation must be ‘3R’ compliant: Reduce, Reuse, Recycle.

*Fabless describes a model where the company designs and sells its products but does not produce them as manufacturing is outsourced to external suppliers.

** A ‘Company with a Mission’ is one that has a structured, measurable, and verifiable commitment to responsible innovation.

Maud Lelièvre, Marketing & Communication Director at COSMOGEN tells me that every team has been trained on responsible innovation and are given access to an inhouse software named ‘Life cycle assessment’ to evaluate products along their development process: applicators and packs are to be dismantled, recycled, and/or refilled, and made of recycled material.

As an active member of the CSR and Mission committee, Maud is particularly committed to the mission of a sustainable transformation of the industry. With her 16 years at COSMOGEN, she is an expert in cosmetic application and packaging innovation, and enthusiastically co-leads product strategy. She explains to me that given the high-level of competition in the beauty industry, packaging innovation vitally allows brands to stand out and offer a different sensory experience thereby responding to strong market aspirations.

So, Maud can you give us practical examples of advanced solutions?

‘Absolutely. Innovative application solutions in packaging can feature built-in applicators such as doe-tips, brushes, and other accessories, in standard or controlled-dose format, for skin care, make-up, fragrance, and scalp. Technical shapes and tips include paper sticks, rollers, application stems, droppers, on-the-go formats, refillable systems, and precision applicators designed for oils, gels, solids, and emerging hybrid fragrances. The gesture technicality is expanding rapidly and reshaping the fragrance category as it answers a strong customer expectation of precision. Beyond an expert gesture, the aim is an elevation of both formula performance and user experience. That is the challenge for what an advanced solution must deliver.’

Tell us how do you see the new generation shifting from sprays to other formats?

‘At COSMOGEN, we see a clear demand from the younger consumers for what we call a ‘sensory experience optimisation’ thanks to a non-invasive fragrance application. It entails the creation of new, nomadic, targeted shapes enabling intimate pulse-point touches for example for fragrance oils with roll-on, or multi-material droppers and hybrid skincare–scent formulas. Rose Calisson developed for L’Occitane is an illustration of our avant-garde technology from 2021; a light-textured perfume-in-gel and a portable mini-size are ideal for skin fragrance touch-ups when out and around. Finally, its spot tip tube is made of polymer from PCR.’

In your opinion, how fast is the industry adoption of the new technology and is there a difference in terms of geography?

‘For sure, overall adoption is fast but its forms and speed vary by region. At COSMOGEN, we see that Europe and North America lead in sustainability-driven innovation and in exploring alternative fragrance gestures, while Asia has the fastest acceleration in compact, precise, high-tech and nomadic formats. Middle Eastern markets have a specific affinity for high-concentration oils, layering rituals and intimate gestures.’

Given where we are now, what do you think the future will hold in terms of innovation?

‘There is so much in store and on so many fronts! I see innovation with a new generation of refill systems, new applicators enabling precise and clean application for oil & gel fragrances, hybrid skincare–fragrance applicators offering an enhanced sensorial experience, biobased material applicators, advanced mechanical systems fully compatible with recycling streams. It is truly an exciting moment and there is one creation that in my opinion crystallises our level of innovation: our patented application solution developed for the Brazilian Brand, O’ Boticario. Our tube features a patented on/off rotating closure system, and a brush washable with water; each pack component can be separated for recycling, the tip can be reused on another tube, and the cap, tube and brush are available in recycled materials.

From innovation in packaging, it is time to move on to new ingredients and formulations.

A Global Community Behind New Fragrance Technology.

During the Fragrance Innovation Summit, Michael White, Global R&D Director for CPL Aromas presented an innovative technology which ignited my curiosity; following the meeting, I had the wonderful opportunity to engage in a one-on-one conversation.

First, it is important to explain how R&D is organized throughout the CPL company; R&D is a global function, a technical community based in the UK and with R&D chemists and applications scientists located across 23 locations and 7 manufacturing sites, working together to serve all product categories. As innovation also requires external collaborations, Michael explains that CPL has been able to establish partnerships with research centres and suppliers to underpin validation and scale-up of technologies. Unique collaborations also include universities, academic labs, and institutes to accelerate breakthroughs in fragrance related technologies. The uniqueness and quality of such partnerships, reinforce the differentiation of CPL Aromas innovation program.

A Global Team for a Global Innovation Mission.

Innovation is seen like an adventure mission, in search of a new frontier, with in-house actors and proprietary technologies, and external members and precious solutions. This approach allows CPL Aromas to have a strong innovation pipeline. In terms of frontier, what CPL Aromas is specifically after is the combination of technical innovation with emotional science and exclusive captives’ positions. The mission’s ultimate goal is to place CPL as a leader in sustainable, sensorial, and scientifically validated fragrance solutions.

Michael, please expand further on this unique innovation combination at CPL Aromas...

‘Let me start with technical innovation. CPL Aromas has registered a trademark and patent application in 2025 for AromaHydro™, a new water-based fine fragrance & body-hair mist platform. This unique formula has no alcohol, no solvents and is not based on nano-emulsions; it is water-based with superior performance enhanced in a clean, non-greasy, hydrating and skin friendly formulation.

This latest skin innovation enriches our ‘Benefits Platform,’ CPL Aromas’ technology portfolio made of a wide range of fragrance technologies designed to address different needs, from enhancing performance to health & wellness and expertise & creativity.

Within this technology portfolio, AromaCore Bio™ offers a long-lasting solution in a biodegradable encapsulation; EcoBoost™ is in the ‘Bloom’ section, thanks to its high-impact, low-dosage fragrance technology, and AromaGuard™ ‘protects’ from malodour perception with a targeted counteraction achieving a malodour reduction by ≥70%.

To support perfume creation, AromaSpace combines Headspace technology with perfumer expertise to recreate nature-inspired scents, delivering authentic fragrance bases that respect natural sources. AromaFusion offers exclusive captive ingredients created through molecular distillation, enabling perfumers to craft unique fragrances for premium differentiation; the most recent exclusive captives are Aromalide™ and Sandalwave™ aroma chemicals. Aromalide™ is a proprietary fruity‑musk captive that combines volatile, pear‑like top facets with smooth ambrette undertones, delivering unexpected volume and richness. Sandalwave™ is a rich, creamy sandalwood‑type captive designed for depth and substantivity. It carries a subtle powdery‑rose facet that introduces a unique fresh, clean “lift” seldom found in sandalwood materials.

Finally, in the core area of health and wellness, CPL has built technologies that use advanced biosensors and scientific validation to design fragrances that promote emotional wellbeing, offering benefits such as relaxation, alertness, happiness, and positivity.

Given how comprehensive your innovation platform is, how has the market reacted to your rich offer?

‘In short, the answer is well’; in fact, all our fragrance technologies have been commercialised by our clients and partners. For example, AromaHydro™, our latest technology available from mid-January 2026 already has an important level of interest with specific customer programs underway. Clients clearly see its superior benefits such as better stability, non-hazardous and safe formulation, long-lasting performance, all at a lower cost.

Can you tell us how long is the usual innovation time?

‘There is no usual time when it comes to innovation. If I take the example of our newest AromaHydro™ technology, we have progressed from lab development to factory in a shorter timeframe than normal, within a year; in Q4-2025, supported by capex in labs and equipment, we were ready for launch.’

How about the CPL Aromas success criteria, what would rule out an innovation project?

‘Our success is measured by technical feasibility, consumer acceptance, and alignment with CPL aromas’ sustainability goals. Projects that fail to meet performance or regulatory benchmarks are discontinued early to optimise our resources. Test phases typically range from 6–18 months depending on the complexity of the development, including stability, sensory, and market validation.’

Do you see a different level of adoption of innovative technologies based on geographic locations?

‘There are indeed differences derived by specific markets’ consumer demands. Adoption of technologies like AromaHydro™ and AromaCore Bio™ is accelerated in regions like the Middle East and Asia with a strong consumer request for sustainability and alcohol-free formats. Europe shows rapid uptake for wellness-driven concepts such as AromaWellness™ while Latin America is emerging for cost-effective, high-performance fragrance solutions like Ecoboost.’

How do you see the future for CPL Aromas in terms of innovation?

“I’m confident in CPL Aromas’ role in advancing fragrance innovation—bringing emotional well-being together with sustainability and sensory performance. Guided by a creative culture, disciplined scientific investment and close collaboration across our teams, our direction is clear. Our mission remains focused on offering new and innovative technologies for our clients”. — Michael White, Global R&D Director, CPL Aromas

It seems to me that CPL Aromas has a crystal-clear innovation format indeed.

Now is the time to explore another angle of innovation with SenseBioTek, a French company and a pioneer in the science of decoding the ‘SkinVOCs’ (Skin Volatile Organic Compounds). During covid, research on disease detection with the canine sense of smell led to the discovery of five volatile biomarkers; a MD and health physics engineer - Nabil Moumane- with extensive experience in the biomedical industry and with a key role in the research, decided to establish SensoBioTek in 2023. The start-up has now seven members of staff who are active in presenting the unique advanced technology to international audiences - Las Vegas in January 2025 - while continuing the development of new devices.

I interviewed Lambert Trenoras, a robotic engineer with fifteen years of experience in Med Tech, who joined the team as head of Business Development and Strategy in 2025.

Lambert, can you explain what is the unique innovation that SenseBioTek brings?

For the first time, the ‘sensing’ or smelling platform of SenseBioTek captures volatile markers directly from the skin surface and analyses them in a ‘clean’ and reliable way. Previous methods were struggling with contamination of samples during transport and/or stockage; our breakthrough technology is turning biology into data; from the collection of skin-emitted VOCs using our patented* body-odour sampling device (SkinVOCs(R)), our analytical platform then performs molecular decoding through chromatography analysis.

* French patent n°24/04707 and international extension N° PCT/EP2025/062043

Why are the perfume and cosmetics industry a key client opportunity for SenseBioTek?

By enabling the non-invasive measurement of volatile molecular signatures at the skin surface, our technology provides an innovative analytical framework for advancing research and development in perfumes and cosmetics. It allows a new solution to fragrance evaluation beyond subjective perception, with an analysis of how a scent evolves and persists under real biological and environmental conditions, such as skin pH, hydration, ambient humidity, temperature, or air pollution. For skin care, our technology tracks active ingredients, interactions with skin microbiome as well as VOC profiles of specific dermatologic symptoms such as inflammation, skin reaction, dryness, and itching. Our tool can therefore contribute to the prediction and selection process during product development.

Given how advanced your technology is, can it even allow for personalisation of products?

Absolutely! Given how easy to use*, accessible and reliable the platform is, it is possible to envisage a personalisation of perfume or skincare based on a skin type. Our way of operandi is also user friendly: we rent our SkinVOCs(R) sampling device to customers, and upon reception proceed to the analysis and reporting. A key element of our business model is that our device is reusable.

*The device can be placed anywhere, neck, arm, chest, scalp, wrists, pulse points ...

What made you join the company as you had already founded your own start-up?

The area of research SenseBiotek is committed to, is truly mesmerizing to me. The quality of the collaborations with academic research centres is another positive factor; we are already in the final stages of development of our ‘medical electronic nose’ with nano-sensors that will have a major outcome in terms of industry applications! Of course, the team of seven is a ‘dream team,’ four women and only two men.

Conclusion: Innovation served hot, stirred with sustainable options.

In the cosmetic and fragrance industry, innovation includes new formulations, smelling and packaging applications. On the formulation front, sustainability is a key pillar in the release of captive ingredients and of innovative technologies offering advanced perfume bases like water. The science of smelling, of decoding human smell also has a major technological breakthrough. While innovative packaging allows brands to offer a different product experience with tools for precision that incorporate sustainability from sourcing to recycling. Packaging therefore contributes to a brand standing out from the competition while responding to a fundamental market aspiration; to be more respectful of the environment guides the evolution of progress and dictates a new definition of ‘what is good.’ ‘Good’ means not only good for us consumers but also in terms of sourcing, processing, producing, and recycling… a whole universe with ample innovation awaiting.