There is a multitude of olfactive trends at play in the market and to make matters more complex, they seem to be going in opposite directions; light and airy versus creamy gourmand, aquatic versus earthy, subtle minimalism versus maximalist bouquets…

Can there be therefore a common thread in the new olfactive compositions? Is there a logic behind the current stream of perfume creations?

The variety of fragrances is becoming wider as perfumes have become an essential vector of our emotions, and a key contributor to our well-being. We naturally crave a different scent matching the ‘instant’ with its mood and that moment of life.

As psychology continues intertwining perfumery with wellness benefits integrated into perfume creations, innovation brings an additional dimension. New molecules, natural or chemical, invented by creative perfume houses give perfumers additional ingredients to play with and inspire alternative compositions. As an example of innovation, LMR Naturals by IFF has launched in February 2026 a ‘Tonka Bean CO2 Absolute’; a sustainable fragrance extract produced using renewable supercritical CO2 technology:

‘It has a brown sugar twist, a hint of buckwheat, and even a subtle touch of cocoa. It’s unexpectedly sweet and salty at the same time and deeply intriguing,” – Alexandra Carlin, senior perfumer at IFF.

Surely, with this new molecule at hand, perfumers will enthusiastically create new gourmand scents for the young audience as Gen Z’s attraction to sweet scents remains strong. Furthermore, a new Unilever survey of 2,000 adults reveals that their preference goes to vanilla, strawberry, and cherry blossom fragrances.

It is A River of Abundance for Fruity Fragrances.

One can draw a correspondence between new fragrances and a large river bearing many affluents; at times dividing and spreading out, and at others, reuniting and joining the mainstream. Following the ‘perfume river course’ can be a long, convoluted journey yet one full of discoveries and beauty. Instead of seeing it as an interference from the main course, alternative option routes can enrich the core river. They serve as a testing ground of new channels, amplifying or, on the contrary, appeasing the stream, by mixing top-middle-base notes with fluidity until they flow into the estuary…

New fluid combinations with a vivid seduction.

There seems to be a common vision between niche perfume brands and major commercial houses on the appeal of fruity compositions. After Pêche Mirage, l’Art et la Matière by Guerlain, Passionfroudh by Fugazzi, Free Coco by Born to Stand Out, La Cerise sur le Gateau by Versatile, Burgundy Oud by Atelier Materi, Bluebell and Wild Strawberry by Molton Brown, Miami Shake by Juliette has a Gun…2026 leans to a firmer fruity direction, both wider and deeper.

A Fruit of the Loom for a New Gourmand Boom.

Soaked with luxury fruits, the ‘floral fruity gourmand’ category is simply bursting (out). The unquenchable desire for fruity fragrances is linked to their natural effervescence; they are sparkling, and uplifting, leaving an impression. Like a happy-juice cocktail, think of Porn-Martini or Pink Champagne, a fruity fragrance is playful by essence and appeals to a wide audience as it joyfully opens a life of fizzy bubbles. Exotic fruits are like optimistic treats; their tropical notes from faraway sunshine destinations take us to sunny vacations.

Looking at new perfume releases, on the opposite side of niche, let’s start with Zara and its latest Cherry capsule that features Chaotic Berries, a strawberry leathery scent and Sassy Cranberry a fruity floral creamy fragrance. I say ‘voilà, c’est bien ça’.

Also, on the prestige brand front, there are many gourmand releases. Lancôme has recently released two fruity perfumes; Idôle Peach N’ Roses, a sparkling juicy fragrance with a delicate floral nuance constructed with a natural peach extract from Givaudan and, La Nuit Trésor Rouge Drama, which features lush strawberries and opulent damask roses. Emporio Armani Power of You is sweet with a tart passion fruit, Balmain Destin (Fate) has a top note of juicy strawberry and a creamy woody base; Valentino Born in Roma Melancholia is a fruity chypre with a lush succulent plum. Yves Saint Laurent has released Libre Berry Crush, a sweet variation of Libre with raspberry and mandarin. Dolce Magnolia by Dolce & Gabbana is a delicate fragrance with a delicious green pear, magnolia and creamy gelato.

On the niche brands side, we have seen an array of perfumes releases, however not exhaustive, that showcase gourmands with a new aspect and a more nuanced facet. Dense fruits have acquired a liquor flavor, the grand rose has been revisited in more creative ways, while oud has returned to more moderate tones after the invasion of strong olfactory ‘tattoos.’

Less Obvious Gourmands in the Niche Perfumery.

With Âme de Fleur, Liquides Imaginaires presents a floral creation with the inspiration of the anemone flower, symbol of eternal love. The scent has top seductive notes of green pear, heliotrope, rose and maté, middle narcotic notes of tuberose, saffron and jasmine sambac.

In 2026, the Polish brand Bohoboco released a beguiling duo of rich fruits. Mango Yuzu Gasoline has tropical juicy top notes that give way to an intense depth made of leather, gasoline and incense; Plum Spray Paint features a sensual plum with a dense smoky whiskey flavor.

Patricia de Nicolaï describes the new intensity of her Fig-Tea* as follows ‘A magical alchemy where the vivacity of a fruity tea meets the richness of a sun-drenched dried fig.’ This version opens with juicy top notes of osmanthus, citrus and orange, then reveals warm middle notes of rosewood, Davana, peach, fig, jasmine essence, finally unveiling sensuous base notes of Maté, Guaiac Wood, Oakmoss, and Amber.

*The eau de toilette was launched in 2007.

Rose, the Grand Flower Remains Queen.

The newest scent of Kilian Paris, Her Majesty, is a modern rose fragrance with a delicate nuance. It is an earthy floral composition with a soft white peach opening, followed by rum, rose, ambrette seeds and cedarwood. It is a cosy creamy fragrance, not overtly fruity, rather woody.

Another original take on rose is Rose Magnitude by the Australian brand, Goldfield and Banks. The composition is both fruity, spicy, woody and gourmand with Damask rose as a core feature; it opens with fresh raspberry and ginger, then incorporates a creamy orris butter, a black vanilla, and finally sandalwood and tonka bean in its base

New Oud Visions with Soft Mood Variations.

The pastel colour of Cloudh Nine by Fugazzi sets the gentle tone. It is a modern interpretation of oud, airy and fluffy like a ‘cloud;’ the scent opens with soft floral notes, smoothly moves to a heart of tonka bean and musks and rests on a delicate guaiac wood and nuanced oud. There will surely be more to come on this front of woody oudy, soft.

An Irresistible Attraction to the Ultimate Fruit Temptation.

In conclusion, we can say that all the fruity perfume compositions, whether light, playfully juicy or intensely gourmand, are apt to seize the audience attraction. In our imagination, they are the ultimate temptation like the red apple of Eden and its forbidden piece of paradise; given their power of seduction, they easily raise our desire for a perfume.

The Yearning for Nature with a Feeling of Freshness.

Paradise may have different facets and instead of ripe fruits, feature fresh greens, damp mossy earth, tea, waterfalls and aquatic notes… in this instance, the yearning for a fragrance is a feeling of nature and peace.

A creation in collaboration with the Mandarin Oriental Hotel, Light of Bangkok is crisp, green, minimalistic, resolutely ‘Thai’ with its lemongrass note and ‘French’ with its elegant and sensuous touch. Immediately, upon smelling the perfume, Bangkok is shining in our imagination; from an invigorating citrus start, the perfume evolves into a warm orris butter, exalted by jasmine and ylang-ylang before resting on a light sandalwood, aired with clary sage and musk.

Diverse Affluents Converge in the River of Olfactive Creativity.

Perfume routes are many and the olfactive navigation can take deviations before finding its eventual destination. Surely, there is plenty of talent within the niche perfume brand universe so who knows which new scents will be blossoming this Spring and, in particular, in early June at Esxence. Looking forward to meeting by the Esxence discovery shores.

Editor’s Note: The fruit cornucopia sees pear, fig, strawberry, cherry, yuzu and peach in addition to the familiar citrus notes. Fragrances in this family rise to new heights of sophistication with more nuanced blends. Gourmands also grow up when vanilla meets spicy, salty, leathery and woody notes, or they diverge completely into tea rituals with matcha, green tea or chai accords. As Laurence mentions, Esxence will be the prime showcase to discover all the emerging trends when hundreds of brands come together for a spectacular event June 3 – 6, 2026. For more details, visit https://esxence.com/?lang=en