Beyond the Canals: Amsterdam’s Blossoming Perfume Scene
2025 . 11 . 03 |
Amsterdam is celebrated for its canals, historic landmarks, and rich artistic heritage — but beneath the familiar postcard image lies an unexpected and captivating world of scent. In recent years, I’ve witnessed an unmistakable bloom of fragrance houses and boutiques across the Dutch capital, each with its own daring vision. Always eager to uncover untold stories for Essencional readers, I set out to explore this dynamic perfume scene. Here, innovation and tradition intermingle: one creator may be handcrafting scents in a small studio, another curating niche treasures in a boutique, while others are challenging conventions with bold, contemporary ideas. What unites them is an indomitable entrepreneurial spirit — and the determination to put Amsterdam on the global fragrance map. Let’s meet three enterprising independents.
The Natural Alchemist
Hiram Green never planned to become a perfumer. Growing up in Toronto, he studied Fine Arts, fully expecting to pursue a career as an artist. That ambition took him to London, where he took a job in a fragrance shop to make ends meet—an experience that changed his life.
In 2003, long before “niche perfume” was a recognized term, he opened his own fragrance store dedicated to “perfumers’ perfumes”—creations where the maker’s artistry was as important as the brand name. In his realm, Hiram used to think of himself as a curator of his own scent gallery. While the concept was ahead of its time, the shop eventually closed. It was the moment Hiram decided to create his own fragrance brand.
A Self-Taught Scent Language
Taking a slow and measured approach, he experimented with his small collection of essential oils, teaching himself to blend by memorizing scents, testing combinations, and comparing them to existing perfumes. Through this approach he found his own signature, stating, “As I do not follow the industry norm that is taught at formal perfumery schools, I believe my perfumes have a more distinctive and personal style.”
A decade later he launched his brand in 2013 with Moon Bloom, a lush white floral inspired by tuberose. It remains a bestseller to this day. Today, his eight perfumes are made entirely from natural, sustainable ingredients, handcrafted in small batches in his studio.
Working with naturals poses several challenges: not only due to a limited palette and strict regulations, but also because of escalating costs and supply shortages. I asked if he could be more specific. “Jasmine has almost doubled in price in the last two years. Tuberose is about €16,000 a kilo. These oils are expensive because they require huge amounts of labor and care to produce.” Despite these pressures, Hiram is committed to crafting the best perfumes he can, believing that quality speaks for itself.
Inspiration from Myth and Memory
Living in a Dutch town far from jasmine fields or rose harvests, Hiram relies on imagination, art, music, and memory for inspiration. His fragrances take us to mythical worlds like Arcadia or Shangri-La, as he turns an abstract idea into a carefully composed scent. He muses, “When you’re creating a perfume, you’re thinking of something that isn’t there—it’s all make believe and up to interpretation.”
Hiram attended Pitti Fragranze in September where he debuted his latest creation, Ultra. “I wanted to create a fragrance that channels the vibrant spirit of the 1980’s: fresh, sensual and luminous, yet with a depth that feels irresistibly alluring.” Narcissus, the key ingredient, with its narcotic and intoxicating aroma, hints at something darker and complex, recalling the Greek myth behind the flower.
An Artisan’s Approach
Hiram’s business is a one-man operation—he blends, bottles, ships, markets, and manages everything himself. This independence ensures complete creative control, though he admits the occasional collaboration would be welcome.
In the Netherlands, where there is no established fragrance tradition, he finds an openness to experimentation—an environment well-suited to his unconventional, deeply personal approach to scent.
The Relationship Driven Curator
Tucked away on a quiet street far from Amsterdam’s bustling tourist hubs, Perfume Lounge is a retreat for the senses. Outside, an inviting mirrored sandwich board offers a final moment to smooth your hair or refresh your lipstick before stepping inside. Once through the door, visitors enter a world where storytelling, education, and olfactory discovery merge.
Its founder, Tanja Deurloo, has spent nearly three decades navigating both the corporate and creative sides of perfumery. “I left the corporate world almost 20 years ago,” she recalls. “I still work with some B2B clients and I love to design. I know the demands of being a small independent store owner as well as the international business side.” In her shop, she extends her vision beyond creation into thoughtful curation.
Curating with Purpose
Tanja describes her boutique as a sensory sanctuary, a space where scientific precision meets artistic passion. Trained as a fragrance chemist, she brings a rare mix of technical expertise and emotional storytelling to her work. Behind every carefully selected scent in her assortment there’s a long-standing relationship.
Today, Perfume Lounge houses about 55 brands, ranging from avant-garde to romantic classics, synthetic to natural, and hailing from countries around the globe. Curating an unparalleled mix of established and emerging brands is one of the shop’s key pillars. Among the selection one finds Jorum Studio, Nasomatto, Grossmith, Caron, Baruti, Pigmentarium and so many others.
Empowering Staff, Enriching Clients
Providing exceptional guidance and personal advice is the other main pillar on which Tanja insists. In addition to offering scent advice, she offers perfume profilings—personal consultations where clients spend 90 minutes exploring their fragrance comfort zones before receiving tailored recommendations.
Staff development is central to Tanja’s philosophy. “Most of our team has been with us for five years or more. For brand training, we often invite perfumers or brand owners. If they can’t be here in person, we train online. And when a brand visits, we always host an event.”
Exceptional service – both during and after-purchase - is another area where Perfume Lounge excels. The rise of multiple communication channels—Instagram, TikTok, email, phone—has been a mixed blessing. “As a small team, we’ve had to be smart about systems to track conversations and keep our personal approach intact.”
Annindriya: A Personal Vision in Perfume
Tanja returns to her creative roots with her own brand, Annindriya, a name inspired by the Sanskrit word meaning the power of the senses and the highest insight. “I’m very much a ‘why’ person—why is that, why does it work that way? When I found this word, it resonated deeply with me.”
Tanja explains, “Two of our core values are the joy of collaboration and a sense of wonder. For this brand, I wanted to create something unique yet wearable.” She recruited a dream team of collaborators including perfumers Christophe Laudamiel, Meabh McCurtin and Francesca Bianchi. The “X” on the box is a nod to the crossroads where people connect, where expertise meets our sense of wonder.
The efforts have been recognized: Annindriya has earned the Dutch Packaging Award, the Dutch Beauty Award (Prestige segment), and an honorable mention from the Art and Olfaction Awards.
Navigating a Changing Market
Operating in a less-trafficked location means that social media plays a crucial role in attracting new visitors. “I like that people come here purposefully,” she says. Her clientele ranges from curious teenagers to seasoned collectors, but the largest group is those “consciously looking for something special, nice, and refined.”
While online sales now outpace in-store purchases, Perfume Lounge remains a destination for those seeking a richer sensory experience.
Looking Ahead
Even in a rapidly changing market, Tanja’s vision is unwavering. In January 2026, the boutique will undergo a renovation to expand its space. She plans to continue nurturing both Perfume Lounge and Annindriya, with the same focus she’s had since the beginning: craftsmanship, integrity, and the power of scent to leave a lasting impression.
The Provocateur
Jeroen Oude Sogtoen, founder and creative director of Zenology and PANTOMIME Parfum, approaches the fragrance industry not as a marketer but as a designer and storyteller. With a background in fashion and interior design, he recently opened his concept shop, ONE THREE FIVE, in an historic building in the heart of Amsterdam. The quiet, minimalist interior is a welcoming place where, in addition to his own brands, he has curated a selection of items ideally suited for the discerning traveller.
Zenology: Hospitality-Inspired Luxury for the Home
Zenology is perfectly at home here in the main room which is reminiscent of an upscale hotel lobby. The brand has its roots in the hospitality industry, as Jeroen was increasingly disappointed with the hotel amenity shampoos and shower gels he came across in his travels. “I thought, let’s create something that is better for the environment with really high quality fragrances.” The resulting collection of clean, eco-friendly and sustainable home and housekeeping essentials bring spa-level comfort and five-star hotel elegance into the home environment.
PANTOMIME Parfum: Storytelling Without Words
PANTOMIME Parfum is Jeroen’s response to the over-marketed and often formulaic niche perfume market. Before telling us about the brand, he reflected back on his experience in the fragrance industry. “The early years of niche were the fun years where everything was new and exciting, focused on originality and storytelling. When the Big Players started doing niche, they changed all the rules and niche became a big business model.” Realizing how difficult it had become to sell artisanal fragrances, and how marketing-driven the sector had become, he resolved to do something unexpected and original.
PANTOMIME Parfum approaches scent as a form of wordless storytelling—when you wear a perfume, after all, you’re speaking without saying a word. Rejecting industry clichés like ingredient pyramids and hollow buzzwords, PANTOMIME Parfum guides us in a different way. Its six scents, called 'Acts,' cast the wearer as the protagonist, with each fragrance setting the stage through vivid scene details, mood, and atmosphere.
The Language of Scent: Opaque Clarity
For the scents themselves, Jeroen puts high-grade synthetics in the lead, layered with naturals in the supporting roles. He refers to this melding of exceptional raw materials as “opaque clarity” remarking that, “You can create a different language with synthetics, you can sharpen, brighten, you can deliver a clarity that naturals never can.”
Integrity Over Commercialism
Jeroen’s unconventional strategy is paired with his refusal to compromise on quality or originality, seeing these values as essential for long-term credibility. During our interview he expressed his deep concern that artful creation is increasingly overshadowed by quick-turn commercialism, further complicated by a market that is increasingly more saturated. Nevertheless, he continues on his own path where the priority is not volume but rather longevity and influence, to educate the public and create works that inspire.
Frustration aside, Jeroen can now count among his successes the loyalty of discerning consumers and partners who value authenticity.
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Closing Thoughts
The Dutch perfume scene may still be in its early days, but its momentum is undeniable. From artisanal craftsmanship to visionary retail and fearless innovation, Amsterdam is shaping a fragrance culture as diverse and imaginative as the city itself. For those willing to follow their nose beyond the canals and museums, a new story is unfolding — one written in accords, notes, and the daring spirit of independence.
For more information:
Hiram Green | Online Store | Handcrafted & Entirely Natural Perfumes – HIRAM GREEN
Perfume Lounge • Exclusive niche perfumes
PANTOMIME Parfum™ Official Site. No words just Perfume.
Here are other locations to visit from multi-brand to standalone boutiques. It’s just the tip of the iceberg!
https://www.skins.nl/en/perfume/
Other brands based in the Netherlands:
https://francescabianchiperfumes.com/fr/
YVRA - Sensual and sophisticated scents – YVRA 1958
NASOMATTO FRAGRANCES – Nasomatto